Rocker Box Gasket Replacement Procedure...

DO get the manual! But, basically...

• Yes, if you're at all mechanically inclined, this is a job you can do yourself quite easily.
  
  
• Remove the gastank. You might want to wear safety glasses when popping the fuel line... it may be pressurized and will blow fuel in an impressive manner. To depressurize, leave the bike idling and disconnect the fuel pump connection, until the bike dies. Then hit the starter a few more seconds. You do this to relieve the fuel pressure and get rid of as much gas as you can before you disconnect the fuel line. DIsconnect the fuel line that goes from the bottom of the tank to the fuel filter. Have shop rags/pans ready to soak up any gas that leaks.
  
  
• Remove the cover... 4 allen head bolts. The X1 has a nice frame design that allows easy access to the top end, other Buells may need a low profile allen wrench for one of the bolts... cut off a wrench or better yet, get the $20 ultra low profile tool, Dennis Kirk carries it among others... part number H28-223, $22.99
  
  
• Position the cylinder such that both valves are closed (take out the plugs, rotate the motor with a few deft jabs to the starter, watch the valves)
  
  
• Remove the lower rocker box (3 -7/16"- bolts on the floor of the rocker box, 4 -1/2"- bolts at each end of both rocker shafts, 2 more -1/4"- allen head bolts)
  
  
• Clean the gasket surfaces. The old gaskets are probably baked on really good. Use gasket remover, a well sharpened wood chisel or putty knife, and PATIENCE. Spray gasket remover, soak, scrape a layer, repeat. No need to rush, you may damage the mating surface. Let the gasket remover do its job... it'll eat its way down through the gasket. If you're lucky, major pieces will lift up. But don't worry about the stubborn spots, they just need PATIENCE and repetitive use of the gasket remover. When you are completely done, polish the mating surfaces with 1000grit sandpaper.
  
  
• Install the new gaskets. The new HD steel pieces go number side up & dry.
  
  
• Torque all the bolts by the book - VERY important. Use the appropriate size torque wrench. I like using a -1/4"- drive below about 15ft/lbs, -3/8"- drive from about 15 to 40 ft/lbs. Torque wrenches are too inaccurate if they're oversized for the job.... you CAN twist off the little gr8 bolts on the floor of the rocker box when torquing to the high end of the specified torque range - use the low number!
  
  Use Blue Locktite on everything.
  
  Torque the 4 -1/2"- bolts first... 15 to 19 foot pounds.
  Torque the 3 -7/16"- bolts next... 10 to 14 foot pounds.
  Torque the 2 -1/4"- allen screws next... 10 to 14 foot pounds.
  
  
• Make sure 10 minutes or so passes between torque down and rotating the engine, so that you know the lifters have bled down.
  
  
• Did you remove the rubber gaskets during the job, and now they won't fit back? Trying placing them in the freezer for a half hour.
  
  
• It's probably the rear cylinder you're doing, right? Why not do the front one too now that you've seen how easy it is. Yes, the front is a little more snug getting the pieces out, but they DO come out with a little wiggling and pushing the harness out of the way.